Its a mesmerising sight by itself when Sushil chops onions at lightening speed while simultaneously taking orders for Mangodas. He would be doing that one minute and then dexterously start frying mangodas in the next minute, surrounded by a crowd of people. All of them, with their eager eyes and their salivating mouths hoping and praying they would get a stake in the next batch of mangodas. The younger me, about 20 years ago, had a mental track of where I stood in that queue of mangoda lovers. Sushil Mangoda Bhandar still has a huge fan following. His humble pushcart at a hardly clean spot, right besides a busy highway in Jabalpur is frequented, by rich and poor fans alike. What you get here for a mere 5-10 Rupees is a few grams of these crude, crunchy moong daal pakoras. Piping hot, placed on that earthy smelling leafy plate, flattened by his (presumably not so clean) palm, splattered on with a tangy chutney and chopped onions. Most people had a serving and waited for the next batch too. Almost the culinary parallel to the more recent concept of TV series cliff-hangers - just the right combination of quantity and content to keep you hooked for the next installment !
I happened to read an article by Vir Sanghvi that made me realise how unjust we have been in appreciating our dear old pakoras. Every Indian I know loves them, has stories of and around them but the mention of pakoras somehow lacks that awesomeness that it deserves. I trust Vir Sanghvi's research and experience when he proclaims that Pakoras (Bhajiya in central India or Bhajji as they are known in UK) are an Indian invention. Unlike the samosa, Vir suggests, we can claim credit for rest of the world's similar attempts at batter fried snacks like Tempura.
This piece is an attempt to stake my share in that passion and appreciation for pakora. Come celebrate the Pakora with me, as the Big B might say!
This piece is an attempt to stake my share in that passion and appreciation for pakora. Come celebrate the Pakora with me, as the Big B might say!
No doubt Sushil's Mangodas or Aalloo Bonda (Batata Vada) awakened the deep love of dish within me, but that wasn't in any way my introduction to pakoras. My family, like anyone else's in central India had pakoras starring in and as the morning breakfast, evening snacks or any time snack for that matter. The usual was thick cut potato or onion rings, dunked in a besan (chick pea flour) batter, fried to that crispy golden glow and that rich aroma of a special meal. Or bread pakoras with/without a filling of potatoes or mint chutney - capable of converting any ordinary wet or sunny day into an "evento especial" (Khaas Mauka). To any Indian worth his/her Desh ki Mitti (soil of motherland) mere mention of a Barsaat (rainfall) should conjure up images of pakoras and tea.
Pakoras, in all their simplicity, owe some gratitude to a supporting cast - dollops of tangy imli (tamarind) or Mint chutney, tomato ketchup, a helping of diced onions, a slice or two of white bread and at times a sprinkling of chaat masala. Put them all together as an unassuming but quick yet never failing sandwich with pakoras as the main filling. Better still if you replace sliced bread with buns (pav or bread roll) a-la vada pav. I like to take it slow and extend the pleasure - a bite of a pakora with just a touch of the chutney followed by biting off the onion as if an afterthought but what a great one at that.
However, the Shashi Kapoor to this Amitabh has to be Chai (the word Tea doesn't do justice to the Indian version) - something that can stand all by itself and yet neither can ever go without reminding you of the other. The bliss of knowing that a slurp of chai is to be followed by a bite of your hot and crispy pakora can only be paralleled by .... another sip of chai having chewed 86% of that pakora bite.
However, the Shashi Kapoor to this Amitabh has to be Chai (the word Tea doesn't do justice to the Indian version) - something that can stand all by itself and yet neither can ever go without reminding you of the other. The bliss of knowing that a slurp of chai is to be followed by a bite of your hot and crispy pakora can only be paralleled by .... another sip of chai having chewed 86% of that pakora bite.
There is another famous pakora shop that has to be mentioned here - the one in Sarojini Nagar, Delhi. Its like the Costco of Pakoras (Thok Vikreta - Wholesale Dealer). They are so busy selling pakoras that they don't even bother serving chutney with it - they just leave Jugs of it outside for you to pour it into plates for yourself. The Variety they serve extends from the must haves like Aaloo, Onion to also ran entries like Bhein (Kamal Kakdi - Lotus Stem) and Baingan (Egg plant or brinjal).
One of their star attractions is Paneer Pakora but I do have my doubts about it. That is the only pakora where I think the besan batter barely sticks around the paneer, pretending that its making a difference. Like Uday Chopra in a Dhoom movie - or any movie for that matter. The reality is that Paneer is a rockstar by itself and I would gladly pay to eat a Cube or two with a green chutney, with or without a pakora or Tikka or Chilli Paneer facade around it.
However, good Pakoras, just like good times, are not enjoyable solely on the principles of a carefully crafted recipe or expensive ingredients. They 'happen' with good company. The chai and chutney wouldn't add much if the pakoda session is between you and yourself. The monsoon rains or a train journey would still be just a nuisance with the crispiest of pakoras if you do not have that company to make it all worthwhile.
In the spirit of a mirchi pakora, maybe it doesn't even need to be with a loved one. I guess anyone with interest in a tangy topic would anyday make a good pakora-mate. Like a colleague with the juiciest gossip about that office romance or a fellow passenger in the train with sufficient interest in politics or cricket or movies (and thats entire India except maybe 5-6 people). If thats not happening anytime soon, we could always have pakoras while having a flash back about past pakora sessions.
Irrespective of how, where and with whom, here's to a life long passion for pakoras, always enjoyed best with a responsible choice for a drink and a tangy attitude to life!
